Switzerland is home to the most 4000ers in the Alps. Saas is a great venue for interesting and spectacular, yet not too technical, 4000m peaks. It’s a great introduction to Alpinism or follow up for those wanting to enjoy the high mountains. We will be in alpine glaciated terrain for much of the week, spending 4 nights in mountain huts – with a welcome night in a valley hotel in the middle. Expect fabulous summits, new skills and a real mountain experience.
This week is a great opportunity to climb three or four or even five 4000m peaks and learn or refresh your essential mountaineering skills.
The mountains around Saas Grund are a great challenge and yet not quite as crowded as the more famous peaks such as the Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn. It is well worth visiting the area.
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The Saas valley is located in the canton of Valais in Switzerland and is known for its large concentration of 4000 metre peaks. We base our week in Saas Grund as it is the best positioned for access to the mountain. There is the possibility of using the Saas lift system to enable easier access, and the area allows for good options of alternative climbs if the weather is bad.
- Mountain huts at full-board
- Hotels in Saas Grund
- Guides expenses
- Guiding fees
What's not included
- Transport to/from Saas
- Equipment rental
- Travel insurance
- Evening meals when in Saas Grund
- Snacks, Bottled water, beers, drinks in huts
- Uplifts according to itinerary
Who is this for?
There is a good variety of climbing with glaciers, snow slopes, easy rocky scrambling and ridges…and stunning views.
There will be predawn starts on the climbing days, but this is balanced with relaxing in the sunny afternoons after the climb…
Accommodation and huts
We stay in the hotel Roby in Saas Grund. It has a bus stop just outside and an ATM next door. Local shops include supermarkets and climbing shops (for purchasing or hiring equipment).
The hotel is comfortable (2 star) with a good bar and restaurant. You can leave items here during the week while we are staying in the mountain huts.
What to expect from mountain huts
They are basic but comfortable. They can cater for vegetarians. Food is usually on a set menu basis (3 courses in the evening, hot drink and bread/jam/cereal for breakfast). Often there is no running water and you have to buy water to drink and wash with (no showers). You can usually buy tea, coffee, wine, beer, soft drinks, chocolate bars and snacks.
Sleeping arrangements are normally dormitory style bunkbeds (eg 6 people on the bottom, 6 on the top) with blankets or duvets. No sleeping bags are needed, rather a ‘sheet sleeping bag’ should be brought. The huts provide slippers for wearing around the hut. On this course we ask the hut guardians to provide a packed lunch for the team each day.
You can expect a good atmosphere and a stunning view!
Arrival day: We meet in the hotel in the evening to go through the weather/conditions and plan for the week.
Day 1: Final kit check/hire and any shopping. Walk up to the Brittania hut (3hrs) and crampon/ice axe training on the glacier below.
Day 2: Climb the Allalinhorn (4027m) and return to the Brittania hut (6-7hrs). A predominantly snow/easy ice climb – a great start to the week.
Day 3: Climb the Strahlhorn (4190m) and descend to Saas Grund (10hrs), overnight in hotel. Another snowy/easy ice climb with spectacular views and a great summit!
Day 4: Walk up to the Almagella hut (4hrs). A very pleasant walk through alpine meadows and up steep mountain trails. Not too strenuous today.
Day 5: Traverse the Weissmiess (4023m). Overnight in the Weissmiess hut (8-9hrs). This is one of our favourite climbs in the Alps – a must for everyone! It has a bit of everything – rocky scrambling, glacier, snow ridges – but none of it too hard.
Day 6: Today we climb the Jagihorn by its Via Ferrata – a stunning scramble up rock and exposed ladders and rope-bridges, it’s great fun and something different for our tired bodies. If for example we have missed out a previous 4000er (due to weather), we can climb the Lagginhorn (4010m)- another big hill in these parts. Descend to Saas Grund (8-9hrs) overnight in hotel.
Day 7: Depart
To maximise your chance of success during this course it is important to get as fit as you possibly can. So we have partnered with Uphill Athlete, specialists in strength and conditioning for peak mountain performance.
Mountaineering is all about being able to exercise at a moderate intensity for many hours (typically 5 to 12 hours) and your training should reflect this. Balance is important too as you will spend many hours walking in crampons. For this a good chore strength is important.
Remember to build up your workouts over time. If you are not used to exercising much, your muscles and joints need time to build up to avoid injury.
We highly recommend this 8 Week Basic Mountaineering Plan to get you in shape for the trip.
The Effects of Altitude
As one climbs higher the air gets thinner and so there is less oxygen in each breath we take. The higher we go the less oxygen there is. This makes exercising much harder work than at sea level and so we have to slow down to help compensate. Because we have slowed down, we may feel colder.
Because there is less oxygen in the air as we get higher, this can lead to ‘altitude sickness’ or Acute Mountain Sickness which is like the worst hangover you have ever had (headache, nausea, weakness, fatigue, dizziness) and can develop into a very serious and even fatal (in extreme cases) problem.
To avoid these problems, enjoy the climbing and increase our chances of summiting we need to acclimatise by spending several days and nights at progressively higher altitudes, so our bodies can adapt. This is a very important part of our preparation.
Pre-Book with Adventure Base:
Black Diamond Saber-tooth crampon rental 6 days €45.00
Black Diamond Raven Ice Axe rental 6 days €35.00
Black Diamond climbing harness rental 6 days €30.00
Black Diamond Half Dome helmet rental 6 days €25.00
Select which extras you would like to pre-book at check-out. Please note we have limited stock so pre-booking is advised.
1. Ice axe – for general mountaineering (between 50 and 70cm depending on your height)
2. Standard steel mountaineering Crampons – 12 point crampons for general mountaineering with anti-balling plates. Whether strap on or clip on models they must fit your boots well. When buying crampons bring your boots to the shop so they can fit them for you – that way you can avoid buying incompatible ones! Specialised ice climbing crampons are not necessary. We can rent you crampons.
3. Helmet – standard hard plastic climbing helmet. We can rent you a helmet.
4. Trekking Poles – optional, but useful for the training days. We can rent you walking poles.
5. Boots and Gaiters – these must fit and be comfortable. If you buy boots try and make sure they are broken in before the week. They should either be ‘plastic’ or high-end insulated leather (not fabric) and must be compatible with your crampons. Your boots should be stiff-soled (also known as B3 grade boots). If your boots are not stiff enough not only will it compromise your comfort when walking/kicking steps in hard snow but also compromise your safety as crampons are more likely to fall off or even break. When buying boots bring your crampons to the shop to make sure they fit well. You can also rent boots in Chamonix.
Gaiters are essential for keeping snow out of the top of your boots and laces away from your crampons. Boots with built in gaiters work well and generally mean that you don’t need an additional pair.
6. Rucksack – 30-50L with a plastic liner (even just a thick bin bag) in case of rain.
7. Waterbottle 1L – not platypus type – they freeze and leak. A light weight thermo bottle for the summit day can be useful too.
8. Harness (adjustable so that it is comfortable over all your layers), 2 screw gate carabiners, belay device, 1x 4ft sling.
9. sunglasses (cat 4), goggles, sun hat, Factor 50 High Mountain sunscreen, lip salve/block.
10. 3 sets of socks and light coloured thermal tops.
11. Lightweight GORE-TEX® hooded top and bottoms – make sure pockets are accessible even when wearing a harness.
12. Warm hat, thick gloves (e.g. ski gloves that are warm and waterproof) and a second pair of thin gloves.
13. Insulating layers. We suggest a thin ‘100’ weight fleece and a synthetic duvet jacket. I think a synthetic or down duvet jacket is perfect because you can put it over all your other layers (including GORE-TEX®) if it is really cold without taking anything off. This is very quick and very warm and practical. If you don’t have a down jacketthen make sure you have 1 or 2 thick fleece layers instead.
14. Trousers – there are many brands of fairly wind proof/water resistant trousers for hillwalking/mountaineering. ‘Schoeller’ fabric garments are great but there lots of other good ones too. Bring a pair of lightweight thermal leggings (longjons) too – it can be very chilly on summit day!
15. Personal first aid – blister kit, aspirin, or Paracetamol.
16. Head torch and spare batteries.
17. light weight Book/iPod for spare time in huts and earplugs (there is always someone snoring at night!)
18. Sleeping bag liner for huts (you don’t need a sleeping bag itself as blankets/duvets are provided)
19. Cash (euros) for extra drinks / snacks in huts (allow €20 per hut night but you may well not spend it!)
20. ID, Snack food, if you have an alpine membership card its worth bringing that too. You may also want to bring a small bag of your favourite tea bags as tea bags in the huts are often a bit weak.
Remember kit should be lightweight but functional – you have to carry it!
Most climbing equipment is available to hire in Saas Grund if you prefer not to buy.
To find out more about our course, availability, or to ask any questions, please get in touch through the website or by phone on +44 (0)845 527 58 12.
We strongly recommend getting specialist travel insurance that covers cancellation, medical and mountain rescue.
Make sure that it covers glaciated mountaineering and climbing. We recommend the Dogtag (www.dogtag.co.uk) – they have comprehensive policies and a good reputation.
We need a minimum of three climbers to confirm this course. Your booking will remain pending if you are the first to book onto a course and we will send you a confirmation as soon as a the course is confirmed. We recommend not booking flights till the course is confirmed. We will confirm the course at the latest 6 weeks before the start date.
Getting to Saas Grund
The best airports for Saas Grund are Zurich or Geneva. Easyjet (www.easyjet.com) have regular flights from many UK airports. Also try British Airways or Swiss.com. From the airport, you can either hire a car, or take public transport (very reliable in Switzerland!). Getting to Saas Grund is easy by rail and bus as well as by car. There is a direct rail service from Geneva airport to Visp (the nearest mainline railway station), and buses from Visp to Saas Grun run every 50 minutes. From Zurich, you can take the train to Brig, then a connecting bus to Saas Grund. See www.sbb.ch for train and bus timetables and booking.