Elbrus – 5642 m

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Introduction

Elbrus is the highest mountain in Europe and is perfectly suited for expedition style mountaineering from late June until end of August or an exhilarating ski touring trip in May and early June. Elbrus stands incredibly tall at 5642m altitude, rising high above its neighbouring peaks, located in the Caucasus mountains of Russia between the Caspian and Black Sea.

Our primary choice of ascent is by the North route for mountaineering and on skis we ascend via the south route.

Clicking on the ‘Book Now’ button opposite, will open a new tab/window in your browser and direct you to our online tour booking system. Here you can check the course dates and availability.

Course Details

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    Price €2290.00

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    Ability Level B

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    Fitness Level 2

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    Start Location: Mineralnye Vody Airport, Russia

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    Guide ratio: 1:4

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    Season: May – September

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    Duration: 8 nights, 7 days guiding

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Further Information.

What's included
  • All accommodation
  • All Guides expenses
  • All Guiding fees
  • All transport
  • Group transfers as per itinerary
  • Mountain hut accommodation full board
  • All the necessary permits
  • All food according with program
  • OVIR registration
  • Russian entry visa support
What's not included
  • Flights to/from Mineralnye Vody Airport
  • Equipment rental
  • Travel insurance
  • Visa Fee
  • Snacks and drinks in the huts
Who is this for?

Ideally you will have some previous experience climbing/easy mountaineering using crampons. It is a relatively straight forward climb but we will be using axe, crampons and ropes for glacier and slope security.

Our Mont Blanc, Alpine Essentials or Swiss 4000ers courses are ideal preparation for climbing Elbrus.

As a skier joining our ski touring Elbrus departures in May and June, you should be an experienced multi-day ski mountaineer with previous experience on a multi-day hut to hut ski tour such as the Haute Route.

Accommodation and huts

What to expect from mountain huts

They are basic but comfortable. At the 2500m-camp the accommodation is double camping tents set onto a wooden platform. At 3800m-camp the accommodation is normally in twin bungalows.

Typical Itinerary

Typical Itinerary:

Day 1.
Arrival at the Mineralnye Vody airport (MRV). Our guide will be waiting for you outside the arrival hall. Once everyone has arrived, the bus leaves from the airport heading to the city of Kislovodsk. The ride will take around one hour. Upon arrival at the hotel, the guide will check the participants’ equipment to make sure that everyone is properly equipped for the climb. When necessary, you can hire missing items in a rental shop the next morning. After sorting out equipment, you will have some free time to explore this beautiful town.

Day 2.
After breakfast we load the backpacks onto an off-road vehicle and head towards Mt. Elbrus north side, having visited the rental shop on the way. The ride will take around 2.5 hours. Upon arrival at the base camp (2500 m), there will be lunch and a walk in the surroundings, which includes waterfalls, mineral springs and green hills. Dinner and briefing at the camp.

Day 3.
Carry to the High Camp (3800 m). On this day participants will carry their climbing gear to the next camp – crampons, ice axes, high-mountain boots, etc. Altogether this should be about 10 – 15 kilos. The hike will take four hours up and two hours down and helps with acclimatisation. Overnight at the Base Camp.

Day 4.
Move to the High Camp with the rest of the personal belongings. It is possible to use porter services for an extra charge. Lunch at the High Camp and free time to rest before dinner and sleep at High Camp.

Day 5.
Acclimatization hike up to the Lenz rocks (4800 m). This is a challenging day. The way up will take 5 – 6 hours and another two hours for the way down. Dinner and overnight at the hut.

Day 6.
Day of rest. Today there will be no hikes, only a snow- and ice course near the camp. The guide will show you how to use an ice axe when you are sliding down the slope. Every participant will be trained in the technique of stopping a slide with an ice-axe. Dinner and overnight at the hut.

Day 7.
The summit day. You will start at 2 a.m. after having breakfast early in the morning. Descent to the hut by 4 – 5 p.m. Dinner and overnight at the hut.

Day 8.
This is the reserve day for summit attempt if the weather was bad on the previous day. Otherwise, descent to the base camp (2500 m). Transfer to Kislovodsk. Last dinner together and overnight in the hotel.

Day 9.
Transfer to the airport and depart.

Training

To maximise your chance of summiting Mont Blanc it is important to get as fit as you possibly can. So we have partnered with Uphill Athlete, specialists in strength and conditioning for peak mountain performance.

Read an Introduction to Uphill Athlete by Steve House, accomplished climber and IFMGA guide here

Mountaineering is all about being able to exercise at a moderate intensity for many hours (typically 5 to 12 hours) and your training should reflect this. Balance is important too as you will spend many hours walking in crampons. For this a good chore strength is important.

Remember to build up your workouts over time. If you are not used to exercising much, your muscles and joints need time to build up to avoid injury.

We highly recommend looking at the various training plans offered by Uphill Athlete to get you in shape for the trip.

The Effects of Altitude

As one climbs higher the air gets thinner and so there is less oxygen in each breath we take. The higher we go the less oxygen there is. This makes exercising much harder work than at sea level and so we have to slow down to help compensate. Because we have slowed down, we may feel colder.

Because there is less oxygen in the air as we get higher, this can lead to ‘altitude sickness’ or Acute Mountain Sickness which is like the worst hangover you have ever had (headache, nausea, weakness, fatigue, dizziness) and can develop into a very serious and even fatal (in extreme cases) problem.

To avoid these problems, enjoy the climbing and increase our chances of reaching the summit of Elbrus we need to acclimatise by spending several days and nights at progressively higher altitudes, so our bodies can adapt. This is a very important part of our preparation and is all factored in to the way we design this course.

Kit List

1. Ice axe – for general mountaineering (between 50 and 70cm depending on your height)
2. Standard steel mountaineering Crampons – 12 point crampons for general mountaineering with anti-balling plates. 3. Helmet – standard hard plastic climbing helmet.
4. Trekking Poles – Foldable
5. Mountaineering B3 Boots and Gaiters
6. Rucksack – Mountaineering specific 30-40L
7. Water bottles up to 2L
8. Harness (adjustable so that it is comfortable over all your layers), with 2 screw gate carabiners.
9. Sun protection including: sunglasses (category 4), goggles, sun hat, Factor 30-50 High Mountain sunscreen, lip salve/block.
10. 3 sets of socks and thermal tops.
11. Lightweight (GORE-TEX® or similar) hardshell hooded top and bottoms
12. Warm hat and 2 pairs of gloves. One pair should be warm, thick mountaineering gloves suitable for conditions at 5000m. The second pair should be a thinner pair that is suitable for mid mountain conditions.
13. Insulating layers. We suggest a thin lightweight fleece and a synthetic or down jacket.
14. Mountaineering trousers
15. Personal first aid – blister kit, aspirin, or Paracetamol.
16. Head torch and spare batteries.
17. Earplugs
18. Sleeping bag silk liner (you don’t need a sleeping bag itself as blankets/duvets are provided in the huts)
19. Cash for extra drinks / snacks in huts as well as any costs not included in the course price
20. ID

Please note this is a guide and you may be required to rent or purchase last minute equipment on arrival dependent on the weather and changes in itinerary.

Booking info

To find out more about our course, availability, or to ask any questions, please get in touch through the website or by phone on +44 (0)845 527 58 12.

For expeditions we take a 20% deposit to secure your place on one of our courses, and we ask for the full balance to be paid 10 weeks before the course start date.

For trips of less than 6 participants we do not send one of our own guides but we will likely send an Adventure Base representative. We use the guiding services of our trusted local experts.

Insurance

We strongly recommend getting specialist travel insurance that covers cancellation, medical and mountain rescue.

Getting to Elbrus

It is best to book flights and airport transfers well in advance of your departure.

Flights are reasonably inexpensive from European airports like London and Geneva to Mineralye Vody Airport in Russia. If you need any assistance searching for flights please let us know.

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