Mont Blanc

Ski/snowboard trousers aren’t suitable for the conditions on Mont Blanc. You’ll need a pair of mountaineering trousers (soft shell) as well as a waterproof hard shell pair that are lightweight and not insulated. Conditions can be harsh especially on the summit days so it’s important to have these two layers. We also recommend to bring lightweight thermal leggings. Read through our kit list for a full description of what you’ll need to bring.

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Yes. From when you arrive till when you depart you are able to store your belongings in the Chamonix accommodation. Please note rooms are usually allocated on a twin share basis, in most cases sharing with others from your course.

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This is a hot topic and based on our extensive experience we are confident to say that you do not need any previous experience to climb Mont Blanc, However: You must be in good shape as per the previous FAQ ‘What kind of fitness level do I need’ and you must also be prepared to accept that if you are not fit enough your guide will have no option but to turn you around. Your safety is always our top priority and therefore you must have a good level of cardiovascular endurance in order to keep up with the required pace for a Mont Blanc ascent.
Crucial to success you must also be able to learn new skills quickly and have an ability to develop new skills, such as walking with crampons whilst attached to your guide with a rope. These are skills we will teach during your first 3 days with us, prior to your Mont Blanc ascent. This training period is also an opportunity for your guide to evaluate your skills and capability to climb Mont Blanc.

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For the three training days at the beginning of the week we have a 4 client:1 guide ratio. For your Mont Blanc attempt our ratio is 2 clients:1 guide.

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No. All mountain huts are fairly basic and do not have access to WiFi. Some huts will have phone signal and some will even have 3g signal but we cannot guarantee this will work at all times.

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All of our guides are highly experienced and friendly people. They have all been hand picked by us over the many years we’ve been in the guiding industry. Our guides are of various nationalities and all speak a good level of English and are very attentive. Their primary role is to get you to the summit and back safely, but they also provide a high level of customer service along the way and are very interesting people to spend time with. They like to share their knowledge of the mountains and their experiences, so don’t hesitate to ask questions and pick their brains. Lastly, they know the route on Mont Blanc like the back of their hands and this is the most important thing when it comes down to making key decisions in the mountains and providing the safest experience for our clients.

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The mountain huts we use for our Mont Blanc course are fairly basic but comfortable. You will sleep in dormitories on a shared basis, usually 6-8 per room. The huts provide breakfast, lunch and a 3 course dinner. In Gran Paradiso we tend to use the Refugio Chabod. On Mont Blanc we tend to use the Refuge de Tete Rousse followed by the Gouter Refuge.

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You need to be able to hike comfortably with a heavy pack for up to 10 hours at a moderate pace. Mountaineering is all about having good cardiovascular endurance to be able to continue being active for long periods. As well as this you will need to have a good head for heights and good overall body balance and awareness.

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Your backpack should be no bigger than 45l and no smaller than 35l. It is important that your backpack has an ice axe strap to stash your ice axe when you are not using it. Your backpack must also have a rain-proof cover. Think light-weight, remember you have to carry it!

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You will need a B2 or B3 mountaineering boot for Mont Blanc. All mountaineering boots are graded in a B1, B2, B3 system. B3 boots are the most rigid, and therefore most suitable for walking on snow with crampons, and B2 boots are a little more comfortable but less rigid and also less warm. An example of a B3 boot is the La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX or Scarpa Mont Blanc Pro.

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This depends on a few factors and how bad the weather actually is. Should Mont Blanc be unsafe, we will study the conditions on other peaks in the Alps, like Monta Rosa. Should conditions be a lot better elsewhere, we will propose this to you as an option.
Strong winds of 50km. This means reaching the summit difficult. High winds on the final ridge to the summit are dangerous and therefore summit success is very unlikely. In the case of high winds all over the high peaks of the Alps, we will look for suitable alternatives in the mid-mountain range. It is also unlikely that a helicopter will be able to fly in a rescue situation if there are high winds, which adds to the decision-making process.
Precipitation. When it snows on Mont Blanc it usually means a summit attempt will be difficult. Route finding in a snow storm is generally quite unsafe. An attempt will depend on the thickness of the snowfall and it will also greatly depend on the wind.
Whiteout. A cloudy whiteout will make a summit attempt difficult. It depends on the thickness of the cloud and we will most likely still attempt a summit but turn back if necessary.
Heat. When it’s been very warm for a long period of time on Mont Blanc the Gouter couloir tends to become unsafe due to regular rock fall. The local authorities are quick to issue warnings when the couloir becomes unsafe and it has been known in recent summers that the Gouter route to Mont Blanc has been briefly closed. We will always listen to and obey local warnings.

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In short, no. Whilst we will always strive to get you to the summit safely, sometimes the weather or the conditions of the mountain don’t play ball. When there is precipitation, high winds and low visibility for example, we cannot guarantee reaching the summit and will sometimes recommend an alternative. Each Mont Blanc course has a lead guide. The lead guide will always conduct a meeting with the clients and other guides the day before the Mont Blanc ascent is due to begin. During this meeting the latest weather forecast, conditions of the mountain, and the clients own ability to reach the summit will be discussed. Clients and guides will voice their opinions and/or concerns at the time and then decide how best to proceed. We fully trust and back our guides to make the final decision based on their years of experience on the mountain. They are entrusted to make the final call and the client must accept any decision made. All decisions will have client safety as a top priority.

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