Matterhorn

Ski/snowboard trousers aren’t suitable for the conditions on the Matterhorn. You’ll need a pair of mountaineering trousers (soft shell) as well as a waterproof hard shell pair that are lightweight and not insulated. Conditions can be harsh especially on the summit days so it’s important to have these two layers. We also recommend to bring lightweight thermal leggings.

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Yes. From when you arrive till when you depart you are allocated a room in our Chamonix chalet and this will not be occupied by anyone else during that period. Please note rooms are usually allocated on a twin share basis, in most cases sharing with others from your course.

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Yes. If you have previous experience on alpine grade AD terrain with good physical fitness, the Matterhorn is within your grasp. We aim to attempt the Matterhorn climb towards the end of the week, after suitable preparation and acclimatisation. You must have a good head for heights and a good level of balance control whilst walking along narrow exposed ridges.

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For the three training days at the beginning of the week we have a 2 client:1 guide ratio. For your Matterhorn attempt our ratio is 1 client:1 guide.

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No. All mountain huts are fairly basic and do not have access to WiFi. Some huts will have phone signal and some will even have 3g signal but we cannot guarantee this will work at all times.

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All of our guides are highly experienced. They have all been hand picked by us over the many years we’ve been in the guiding industry. Our guides all speak a good level of English and are very attentive. Their primary role is to get you to the summit safely, but they also provide a high level of customer service along the way and are very interesting people to spend time with. They like to share their knowledge of the mountains and their experiences, so don’t hesitate to ask questions and pick their brains. Lastly, they know the route on the Matterhorn like the back of their hands and this is the most important thing when it comes down to making key decisions in the mountains and providing the safest experience for our clients.

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The mountain huts we use for our Matterhorn course are fairly basic but comfortable. You will sleep in dormitories on a shared basis, usually 6-8 per room. The huts provide breakfast, lunch and a 3 course dinner. In Chamonix we tend to use the Refugio Torino and Cosmiques Refuge for the training days. For your Matterhorn climb we use the Hornli Hutte which is situated at the base of the Hornli ridge.

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You need to be able to hike for 6-8 hours at a moderate pace. Mountaineering is all about having good cardiovascular endurance to be able to continue being active for long periods. As well as this you will need to have a good head for heights and good overall body balance.

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Your backpack should be no bigger than 50l and no smaller than 30l. It is important that your backpack has an ice axe strap to stash your ice axe when you are not using it. Your backpack must also have a rain-proof cover.

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You will either need B2 or B3 mountaineering boots for the Matterhorn. All mountaineering boots are graded in a B1, B2, B3 system.
This will greatly depend on the conditions of the Matterhorn. If it is dry and warm B2 boots will be suitable. If it’s a little snowy and cold, B3 boots will be required. Both can be rented locally. Don’t hesitate to get in touch with us to hear the latest conditions on the Matterhorn.

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This depends on a few factors and how bad the weather actually is. Should the Matterhorn be unsafe, we will study the conditions on other peaks in the region, like Monta Rosa. Should conditions be a lot better elsewhere, we will propose this to you as an option.
Strong high winds – this means reaching the summit is unlikely. High winds on the ridge will put us in danger and therefore we will likely look for an alternative.
Precipitation – When it snows on the Matterhorn it usually means a summit attempt will be very difficult. The route to the summit of the Matterhorn is a rocky ridge and if its covered in snow and ice it becomes a treacherous task. Route finding in a snow storm is also unsafe.
Whiteout – A cloudy whiteout will make a summit attempt difficult. Route finding in a whiteout is generally unsafe and therefore we will encourage you to consider an alternative.
Heat – This doesn’t tend to offer up any problems. When the Alps is hit with high temperatures and dry conditions, the Matterhorn is in good climbing condition.

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In short, no. Whilst we will always strive to get you to the summit safely, sometimes the weather or the conditions of the mountain don’t play ball. When there is precipitation, high winds and low visibility for example, we cannot guarantee reaching the summit and will sometimes recommend an alternative. Each Matterhorn course has a lead guide. The lead guide will always conduct a meeting with the clients and other guides the day before the Matterhorn ascent is due to begin (Usually the evening before we leave Chamonix for Zermatt). During this meeting the latest weather forecast, conditions of the mountain, and the clients own ability to reach the summit will be discussed. Clients and guides alike will voice their opinions and/or concerns at the time and then decide how best to proceed. We fully trust our guides to make these final decisions based on their years of experience on the mountain. They are entrusted to make the final call and the client must accept any decision made. All decisions will have client safety as a top priority.

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