The Matterhorn is probably the most iconic peak out there in the mountains. Rising behind the charming town of Zermatt on the Swiss / Italian border this is a highly sought after summit for mountaineers and adventurers alike. Daring, dramatic and intimidating this is one of our favourite mountains to guide. While we try and stick to the tried and tested itinerary below, the mountain and the weather sometimes has other ideas. We will always remain as flexible as possible, which is why we only work with experienced and knowledgeable guides, to make sure we can change any plans if required.
We meet in the evening at the accommodation to go through the plan for the week as well as the current weather and mountain conditions. You will meet with your fellow climbers and your guides so you can ask any questions and will have a chance to go through your kit.
First day in the mountains
We take the Aiguille du Midi cable car and spend the day on rocky ridges such as the Arete des Cosmiques and Arete à Laurence or similar. Overnight in Chamonix.
Overnight in a mountain hut
First day of climbing on the Italian side of Mont Blanc. Typical routes would be the Entrèves, Marbrées, Tour Ronde and the Dent du Géant. This is the final preparation for the real thing, and they are highly sought after routes themselves. Overnight in a charming mountain hut.
More alpine routes
Second day climbing on the Italian side of Mont Blanc. Typical routes would be the Entrèves, Marbrées, Tour Ronde and the Dent du Géant. This is the final preparation for the real thing, and they are highly sought after routes themselves. Overnight back in the Chamonix valley.
Head to Zermatt
Drive to Zermatt after breakfast (3 hrs). We take the uplifts from the town and approach the Hörnli hut where we spend the night, ready for our summit attempt tomorrow.
Climb the Matterhorn
Leave the Hörnli hut at 4am and climb the Matterhorn. This is an incredible day and one where you will need to push hard to reach the summit. If all goes well we will descend and head back to our Chamonix accommodation, but if the weather isn’t great we have the option to spend a second night in the hut for an attempt on Day 6.
Spare Day / Return to Chamonix
To maximise the chance of success if the weather is bad on Friday we are able to attempt the climb today weather permitting. This is something we feel is essential in providing you with the best opportunity to make the summit.