The Matterhorn is one of the most iconic mountain peaks out there. Towering over the charming town of Zermatt on the Swiss / Italian border, this is a highly sought after summit for mountaineers and adventurers alike. Daring, dramatic, and intimidating this is one of our favourite mountains to guide on.
While we try and stick to the tried and tested itinerary below, the mountain and the weather sometimes has other ideas. We will always remain as flexible as possible, which is why we only work with experienced and knowledgeable guides, to make sure we can change any plans if required.
You meet with your guide in the evening at the accommodation to go through the plan for the week as well as discuss the current weather and mountain conditions. Here you will have a chance to go through your kit under the experienced eye of your guide and to ask any questions that you may have.
First day in the mountains
You will take the Aiguille du Midi cable car and spend the day on rocky ridges such as the Arete des Cosmiques and Arete à Laurence or similar. Overnight in Chamonix.
Overnight in a mountain hut
First day of climbing on the Italian side of Mont Blanc. Typical routes would be the Entrèves, Marbrées, Tour Ronde and the Dent du Géant, which are all highly sought-after routes in themselves. Overnight in a charming mountain hut.
More alpine routes
Second day climbing on the Italian side of Mont Blanc. Typical routes would be, similar to Day Two, the Entrèves, Marbrées, Tour Ronde and the Dent du Géant. This is the final preparation for the real thing. Overnight back in the Chamonix valley.
Head to Zermatt
Drive to Zermatt after breakfast (3 hrs). We take the uplifts from the town and approach the Hörnli hut where you’ll spend the night, and get ready for your summit attempt tomorrow.
Climb the Matterhorn
Leave the Hörnli hut at 4am and climb the Matterhorn. This is an incredible day and one where you will need to push hard to reach the summit. If all goes well you will descend and head back to your Chamonix accommodation, but if the weather isn’t great you have the option to spend a second night in the hut for an attempt on Day 7.
Spare Day / Return to Chamonix
There is 1 spare day built in to the itinerary in order to facilitate extra training if required and / or to move the summit day based on weather and conditions. All of this is aimed at giving you the best chance of making the summit.