Monte Rosa lies on the border between Switzerland and Italy and is one of the best kept secrets in the Alps. The highest peak of the range is the Dufourspitze (4634 m) which is the highlight of the peaks you climb on this stunning mountain adventure. Speak to any mountaineer whose taken this trip and they’ll tell you how truly special it is.
While we try and stick to the tried and tested itinerary below, the mountain and the weather sometimes has other ideas. We will always remain as flexible as possible, which is why we only work with experienced and knowledgeable guides, to make sure we can change any plans if required.
We meet in the evening at the accommodation to go through the plan for the week as well as the current weather and mountain conditions. You will meet with your fellow climbers and your guides so you can ask any questions and will have a chance to go through your kit.
Training and acclimatisation
First training and acclimatisation day. We take the Gornegrat railway from Zermatt and head towards our first peak, Riffelhorn (2928m). We climb the east ridge whilst practicing rope skills, climbing and scrambling techniques. This is a great preparation for some of the technical sections on the Dufourspitze later in the week. We return to our hotel in Zermatt for the night.
Climb Breithorn (4164m)
Today we make our way up to the Breithorn (4164m) our first 4000m peak of the week. This is great for further acclimatisation and we continue to progress our mountaineering skills. After reaching the summit we descend to the Ayas Hut and spend our first night in the mountains at an altitude of 3400m.
Climb Castor (4228m) and Pollux (4092m)
Waking up early we set off from the Ayas Hut and aim to climb Castor (4228m) and if we have time we will also climb Pollux (4092m) before descending down to Zermatt for a welcome night back in the hotel.
Time for the main objective
Time to set off for the main objective of this course: The Dufourspitze (4634m). We leave our hotel and set off to the Monte Rosa Hut by taking the Gornergrat railway and then hiking for approximately 4 hours. We settle in to the hut and try and get a good night sleep at an altitude of 2795m.
We set off very early from the Monte Rosa Hut and aim to climb the Dufourspitze before returning back to the same hut for the night. It is a long and demanding summit day that will take us up to 10 hours in total from leaving the hut to returning for the night. We spend this night in the hut and reflect on the achievements of the day over a delicious meal.
Descend back to Zermatt
After a more leisurely breakfast than yesterday, we make our way back down to the Gornergrat railway and descend to our hotel in Zermatt. There is the option to depart this afternoon if needed, otherwise you can enjoy a well deserved afternoon rest before a final meal and celebration together in the evening. Overnight in the hotel is included.