Monte Rosa lies on the border between Switzerland and Italy and is one of the best kept secrets of the Alps. The highest peak of the range is the Dufourspitze (4634 m), which is the highlight of the 4,000m+ peaks that you climb on this stunning mountain adventure. Speak to any mountaineer whose taken this trip and they’ll tell you how truly special it is.
While we try and stick to the tried and tested itinerary below, the mountain and the weather sometimes has other ideas. We will always remain as flexible as possible, which is why we only work with experienced and knowledgeable guides, to make sure we can change any plans if required.
You will meet with your guide for a briefing in the evening to go through the plan for the week, as well as to discuss the current weather and mountain conditions. Here you will have a chance to go through your kit under the experienced eye of your guide and can ask any questions that you may have.
Training and acclimatisation
On your first day you take the Klein Matterhorn lift to the middle station to do a refresh session on crampons on the glacier and begin your acclimatisation. After the session you will climb the easy ridge of Theodulo Horn in the afternoon to reach the Theodulo hut, where you will settle in for dinner and your first night at altitude.
Climb Breithorn (4164m)
Today you make your way up to the Breithorn (4164m), your first 4000m peak of the week. This is great for further acclimatisation and you continue to progress your mountaineering skills. After reaching the summit you descend to the Ayas Hut and spend the night in the mountains at an altitude of 3400m.
Climb Castor (4228m) and Pollux (4092m)
Waking up early, you set off from the Ayas Hut and aim to climb Castor (4228m) and if you have time you will also climb Pollux (4092m), before descending down to Zermatt for a welcome night back in the comfort of the hotel.
Time for the main objective
Time to set off for the main objective of this course: the Dufourspitze (4634m). You leave your hotel and set off to the Monte Rosa Hut by taking the Gornergrat railway followed by a 4 hour (approx.) hike. You settle into the hut for the night and try to get a good night’s sleep at an altitude of 2795m.
You set off very early from the Monte Rosa Hut and aim to climb the Dufourspitze before returning back to the same hut for the night. It is a long and demanding summit day that will take you up to 10 hours in total from leaving the hut to returning for the night. You spend this night in the hut and reflect on the achievements of the day over a delicious meal.
Descend back to Zermatt
After a more leisurely breakfast than yesterday, you make your way back down to the Gornergrat railway and descend to your hotel in Zermatt. There is the option to depart this afternoon if needed, otherwise you can enjoy a well deserved afternoon rest before a final meal and celebration together in the evening. Overnight in the hotel is included.